So, I know it is now 4 months after the fact, but I have been a little busy as of late! I figured it's better late than never, and wanted to share some of my behind the scenes images from this past July when I was lucky enough to work the closing show for Mercedes Benz Swim Week 2014 at The Raleigh in South Beach. I got to work with the amazing, Sherilyn Segal, and between the 2 of us, we managed to make up 20 girls in about an hour and a half to make the runway on time!
Sherilyn Segal keyed the look for the closing show, which was a combination of 4 designers. Lolli Swimwear, Beach Riot, Anna Kosturova, and Manglar Swimwear all shared the stage (and the models) which resulted in a super-sized killer show to end the week! Due to the fact that the girls were walking in multiple shows, we kept the looks simple so that it could translate from one designer to the next. The look was focused on bronzed, fresh skin with a natural looking lip. We added a bit of a simple liner to the top lash line, some mascara, and they were on their way! All except for Pia Mia, who walked only for Lolli Swim. For Pia, I added a bold pink lip, and a more dramatic set of false lashes to make her pop as she closed the show!
The energy backstage was fantastic, and the shows came out amazing! I wasn't sure, in the beginning, if we could pull off all of those makeups in the time we were given. But somehow we made it happen, because as they say in show-biz... "the show must go on!" (and preferably on time! :)
(As an added bonus, I was also lucky enough to meet the always entertaining, Dennis Rodman, backstage! What a trip!! :)
Until next year swim week!!! :)
Recently I've been asked a lot for more tutorials, tips, tricks, and product recommendations. So I thought I would stick with the easy stuff to start and let you guys know about some of my favorite day-to-day products. I'll be working on a tutorial for later in the week, but hopefully these couple of things will keep you happy and pretty until then! ;-)
The first thing I want to share with everyone is Maybelline's Dream Fresh BB Cream. I just can't get enough of this stuff! I picked this product up a few months back at a drug-store while I was on vacation in Orlando. I wanted something cheap, easy, and most-importantly lightweight to wear to my nephew's soccer tournament. This BB Cream retails at around $7 so when you compare it with your other foundation options and tinted moisturizers out there right now I'd say it's pretty hard to beat!
The consistency is very liquidy and the coverage is fairly sheer
These little babies smell incredible, keep your lips hydrated for up to 8 hrs at a time, and offer a sheer, but pretty wash of color. Trust me when I tell you, these guys are addicting!!! I find myself applying more and more without even realizing that I'm doing it! Another cool thing with the Baby Lips brand is that they actually wear really well underneath your other lip colors. (Most lip balms and chapsticks cause anything you put on top of them to slip right off.) But if you apply a light layer of the Baby Lips balm to your lips and let it soak in for a minute, you can then put on a really matte shade of lipstick and expect a really smooth wear that will actually last. (**NOTE** Baby Lips are not designed as lip primers and do not work in the same manner. They can be worn underneath certain other lip colors, but are not designed to increase the wear-time of the regular lipsticks.)
Today I wanted to talk about the art of creating a flawless face chart. What is a face chart you ask? Well, in the makeup world, these can be one of the most important and useful tools for makeup artists today. In our digital age, there are even apps for creating these guides on your ipad or tablet, but I personally prefer the old fashioned way of putting makeup to paper. During my many years working in cosmetics, this was one of my favorite ways to pass the time during our slow moments.
For most working makeup artists today, makeup is an art form, and something for them to be truly passionate about, so it's no wonder that many professional makeup artists consider themselves to be traditional artists as well. Most of us are very visual people who simply love to create! I love taking a blank face chart and transforming it into something else entirely. This can be a very tedious process, for some, more than others. Whenever I am designing a look, I like to start by sketching out the basic features very lightly with a pencil. This way, if I am trying to alter the shape of the eye to mimic someone with more 'bedroom eyes', like the famous Marilyn Monroe, I have a general guide to lay the colors on top of. I also like to create different lip shapes and sizes, so using the pencil first gives me a vision of where I am going to go next. Then, I start by using some type of powder or eyeshadow that is close to a natural skin color and I go through and add some details and contouring, mainly to the nose, eye, and cheek bones.
Like it is with any art form, the way it is applied is different depending on the medium you are using. A painter cannot apply the same way for a water painting as they do for an oil painting or with acrylic paint. It is the same with makeup. I find that creams are usually best applied and blended using sponges and even tissues, or if a finer detail is required, with a small synthetic brush. I prefer the #231 from M.A.C. Cosmetics. This is my brush of choice when doing any detail work on the lips or any smudged eyeliner. I also use the #210 brush to create definition of individual hairs in the brows and sometimes for lashes or details on the lips as well. When it comes to powder products, I like to use a #242 or a #252. These are both flat synthetic brushes sold by M.A.C. and these work amazingly well for allowing you to control how much product is being placed on the paper in any given spot. Also, when working with shadows, blushes, and powders, my number one tip is not to apply them directly to the paper! This is another reason why I like these flat-sided brushes for this. When you are starting off with you shadows, you want to load up the product on one side of the brush, tap off the excess on a tissue or paper towel, and then flip the brush over and apply it to the paper with the clean side of the brush. Trust me, the product and color will still show up, but this will keep you from applying to much color in one area and save you HOURS of time on blending. The same applies when you are applying cream products with a brush, always, always, flip the brush over before you put it to paper!
When it comes to the lips on a face chart, I always like to start with a little bit of an actual lip liner or eye liner at the corners of the mouth. Just a little though, not all the way around, then I take my #231 brush, apply some lip color to the one side, flip it over, and then use this to blend the liner and lip color all over the lip. Always be sure to leave some lighter spaces where you let the paper show through to give the lips some dimension. You can also add these light spots in later by mixing some white eyeshadow up with water, but this is more tedious and time consuming in my opinion. Then after all of the color is applied, I put a little bit of a darker lip liner or eye liner onto the same brush I have been using, turn it on it's side and use the edge to add some detail to the center and corners of the lip.
Now for the eyes, arguably the most important part of your face chart. Remember, when you are working with shadows, to always flip the brush, make your life easier and trust me on this piece of advice! I usually like to apply a base before I am going to do a lot of blending around the eye, same principal here as when it's on an actual person. I prefer M.A.C.'s Fast Eye Response to do the trick, although I know some of my other artist friends prefer M.A.C.'s cream color base in Luna. Either way will work, try them both and see what you prefer. In any case, you don't need much, you don't want to see the base at all. I usually apply a dab of Fast Eye Response to the back of my hand and then use a sponge to blend around the eye area. (**Make sure you do this step Before you apply any pencil or start to blend, otherwise you will move the product you have already laid down with the cream) For the eye brows, I always sketch them out in pencil first to have a guide, same as with the lips and the nose. Then I use a #208 small angle brush to lightly blend the shadow across the area that I've sketched out. After doing this, wet a little shadow and use your smallest detail brush, (I prefer the #210 from M.A.C. for this as well) and sketch in some individual hairs to make the brows more realistic. If you don't have a small enough brush, it also works really well to use disposable eye liner wands or lip wands and cut them to get them as thin as possible.
Next, you'll want to start applying your eye shadows. There is really no magic trick her, except to FLIP THE BRUSH!! (Are you noticing a trend? ;-) When it comes to the eyes, this is where your artistic style will show through more than anywhere else. Apply the makeup the way you would imagine applying it to your clients eye. After all, this is supposed to be a guide for you to apply a makeup to a person someday. :) Once you have finished applying all of the colors to your eye, AND coloring in the actual eye itself, it's time to work on the lashes!! I recommend practicing this next step several times before you actually apply them to your face chart. There is nothing worse than spending hours creating the perfect eye makeup, only to cover it up or ruin it with bad lashes.
For lashes, I always like to use a liquid black liner, usually boot black from M.A.C. OR a very fine-point ball pen. Depending on how thick or wispy you want your lashes to look. This will inevitably cause you the most grief when trying to master the art of face charts, but rest assured that if you keep practicing, you will get it, and it will eventually make sense to you! I normally cut up disposable lip gloss wands or eye liner wands for this step as I want the strokes to be as thin as possible. Make sure you do some test strokes on another piece of paper before you start. I like to work on my face charts on a clip board, so that I can hold the paper and manipulate the angle that I need everything to be at, so for me, it helps to rotate your paper so that you are always drawing at the angle that flows most naturally for you. I am right-handed, so it's easier for me to make a clean line drawing from left to right than from right to left. Because of this, I am constantly flipping my paper upside down and sideways and every which way I can to make it the easiest for me to achieve my desired look. When I am working on bottom lashes for instance, I flip the chart upside down to do the outer corner of lashes, then I flip it over again to do the inner corner. Basically you want little tiny strokes going in an outward direction from the eye, (except for the lashes in the center of the eye, they are slightly less curved and some may even go straight up). And finally, after applying your lashes, you should be finished and ready to place your chart on display, or maybe, use it as your reference for a makeup you are about to execute. In any case, this is just a simple beginners guide to the art of face charts. I hope this has been helpful, and as always, feel free to give me a shout if you have any questions!! :) Happy painting!!!
Here are some examples of the different stages of a face chart, executed into an actual makeup look... This is what you want to be able to achieve from each chart that you create. The idea is to turn them into an actual look on a person. :)
Face Charts are also great for designing theatrical looks around Halloween and other holidays!! :)
Stay tuned for more tips and tricks!!! And be sure to leave me your feedback on this tutorial. Look for more insights and tips from me on instagram... Follow me at @DesignByAlliT
I wanted to share some of my recent studio-work with Vanessa Rogers Photography. We played around with some really soft colors and soft, natural lighting for our models, Natalya Andrle and Cora Deitz.
The headband that model Natalya is wearing to the left, was actually thrown together last minute at the shoot, and Vanessa's bouquet of flowers paid the price. This image was modeled after a picture that Natalya had seen of a little girl wearing a band of flowers in her hair. We all loved the imagery of this, and so the scissors came out, and Vanessa's flowers ceased to exist as a table decoration!
This shoot was a pleasure to work on and both of the models were really wonderful. Natalya is from Brazil originally and she was jumping on a plain to Los Angeles immediately after wrapping with our shoot! She was amazing though, and thanks to her we breezed through the shots in plenty of time for her to make her flight. :)
We also experimented with a series on 'textures' that Vanessa is working on. The material that Nat is holding in front of her face, was actually used as a packing material in a shipment that Vanessa had previously received. We wanted to play around with the light and shadows created from the awesome texture of the material so I kept the makeup very clean, except for a bold, graphic liner. Her lips were kept nude, and her hair slicked back to keep the attention focused more on the pattern that was being created.
Then finally, to wrap the shoot with Natalya, we pulled her long, (amazing) hair back down and had her jump on the trampoline to get a few action shots before she left!! These were some of my favorites, as I was so impressed with how graceful she managed to look, all while bouncing all over the place on a mini-trampoline!!
Up next, was the amazingly bubbly Cora Deitz!! Don't let her demure looks deceive you, Cora is one big ball of energy!! She was such a pleasant surprise to get to work with. Due to scheduling conflicts with a previous shoot, she was a little delayed in arriving to our location. But that didn't stop her from arriving full of smiles and apologies and ready to work! Because of the time-frame we shot Cora's entire shoot in just over an hour! However, you would never know it based on the amazing images that she produced! She showed up ready to get to work, and had us cracking up the whole time! It's always such a pleasure to work with people like this, and there is no doubt in my mind that Cora is going to be on to bigger and better things in no time! This girl definitely has a huge career laid out in front of her, she is going to be one to watch!!
For Cora's initial looks, we had planned on using another random fabric from the 'textured' series. This one was sort of an iridescent thin, plastic sheeting. Cora was peeking through a tear in the fabric and she looks so soft and gorgeous and gorgeous in them.
We then wrapped up with Cora on the trampoline, same as Natalya. Both of these models were so graceful, and truly impressive at posing while flying through the air. This shoot was so much fun to work on, and the models were such a pleasure to work with! Of course, I would be crazy, if I forgot to mention the absolutely amazing mastermind behind the whole thing, Vanessa Rogers. Vanessa and I have worked on several projects together recently, and I can't wait to share some of the images from our most recent project together, shot on location at the beautiful Vizcaya Gardens, located in Miami, FL. Stay tuned for more fun collaborations coming soon from Vanessa and myself!!!